hub removal

[Tinbob1940]

Hi I am a new boy on the block, and in the process of restoring a basket case 1927/8 heavy 12/4, current problem is a rear hub stuck onto the half shaft, the nice little extractor is of no use as the threads are very likely to strip. I have manufactured a 6 bolt angle iron device with a 1 ton hydraulic car jack in the middle, but even with max force applied to jack and a mighty wallop with a sledge on the end of the structure it still fails to shift, I did try warming the hub up but still no go. any tips would be appreciated

[Bigsbyman12]

Hi Tinbob.
Surprised that no one has made any comments on your hub removal post as it is a fairly simple and routine procedure to be carried out when checking brake shoes, hub felt or bearing.
I have recently tackled (for the first time in some 40 years of ownership) the removal of a rear hub from a 1927 12/4.
Before starting I did as much research as I could to find any information already available.
I bought the VAR Workshop Instruction Manual on a memory stick from Steven Newton.
In a telephone conversation with Jim Stringer of the VAR he ran through the procedure for replacing rear hub felt seals involving the hub removal and this is summarised below-
1) Remove brass dust cap - anti clockwise.
2) Remove hub nut split pin then using a tube spanner remove the 7/8"whitworth hub nut.
3) Use the Austin Hub Puller - screw fully into the hub threads. If you don't have the tool kit puller then use one which attatches to at least three wheel studs. Tighten up and wait about 3 days under tension. If there is no movement try heat and tapping with a hammer to remove the hub.
4) Turn over hub- back has a castellated ring that removes anti clockwise.
5) Lift out old felt seal.
6) soak new felt seal (available from VAR spares) in some oil -remove excess before fitting.
7) Good time to fit new brake linings.
8) To replace hub - half shaft key in line- use a piece of wood over hub and hammer on.
9) Replace half shaft nut - tighten with tube spanner - fit new split pin.
10) Check brake adjustment - for 4 wheels with car jacked up on axle stands to balance - fronts should come on before rears. Use brake adjusters to achieve this set up.

In my recent efforts with the rear hub removal I found the above useful. The standard Austin hub removal tool fully threaded into the hub pulled the hub apart using the central bolt only. No heat was necessary. On fitting a new hub felt and new brake linings I found that the brake rods had to be disconnected to permit the hub to fit over the new linings. Even then the hub was too tight to fit over the half shaft and I resorted to try tapping on the hub with a steel hammer without a timber spacer in place. Big big mistake. Result is that I have now damaged the threads in the hub such that neither the hub puller or brass dust cap will screw back on. I did have a try with a thread file but no luck. It is after all a female thread.
Feeling stupid about this now I have just left it as is but knowing I will have to tackle it again soon. Will probably have to see if a local engineering machine shop can recover the thread or will have to try and source a replacement rear hub.
Let us know how you get on with your hub.
Regards
Mitch.

[Austin-App73-77]

I have over the Christmas break managed to remove all four brake drums using a hydraulic bearing extractor.
I placed 3 wheel nut rings over the studs with a nut on each wheel stud and placed the three puller legs over them - both rears came free with a few light blows from a small copper hammer on the drum rims.
The fronts were a lot easier to get off using the same method.
Now my next challenge is I need to strip the kingpins so I have posted a request in a new thread for this.
I have photos of the hub removal if anyone wants them - I tried posting to here but they are too large for the forum.

[austinbrit]

Here are a couple of photos of John Dunn's hub puller, which he has kindly lent to me.
Easily produced if you have welding gear!
Paul

[austinbrit]

Pic No 2